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Less summary than survey, the Street Food issue of Lucky Peach flits from birria in Mexico City to chicharron-studded tortillas in Buenos Aires, from chaat in Mumbai to gizzard and noodle soup in Bangkok’s Lumpinee Boxing Stadium.

For Jonathan Gold, the experience of eating street food is inseparable from time and place. We delve into the history of “Turkey in the Straw,” an ice-cream truck ditty that rings out across Los Angeles; we spend a day with the Doughnut Luchador of East LA (doughnut slinger by day, luchador by night). We learn what happens, exactly, when you cook with charcoal, and what nixtamalizing does to corn. Plus, a look into the wondrous array of street sausages around the globe, the best of the wurst.

The 10th issue of Lucky Peach hits newsstands February 25th.

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February 4, 2014   |   205 notes